Clean Shave

HEALTH & FITNESS

May 2015

CLEAN

SHAVE

Vernon R. Heard

I didn’t grow up with my Pops. My mom raised three boys on her own and did an amazing job. I owe everything I am to the lessons she imparted. From the heart and sometimes from the end of a belt. But it all worked out.

As an adult, I’ve realized that there was one basic thing I needed that I didn’t get from growing up with a single mom. The details of a clean shave. It really hit home when I was talking to my brother and his son in L.A. a few months ago and they were talking about their issues with shaving and razor bumps. My brother has avoided razors for years and only uses hair clippers to shave with. His son also. He never got to effect a clean shave but it saved him other shaving drama. It was clear the disconnect in our upbringing was paid forward (or not) from father to son.

I thought the subject would be worth writing about. As usual, I have to issue the “these are just my opinions” disclaimer. LOL.

In my experience, the keys to proper shaving are a) invest in good blades, b) use a gentle technique to shave, c) keep your beard\stubble moisturized the entire time and, d) my secret weapon, B&C Skin Tight.

PAY FOR GOOD BLADES

A good, clean, sharp blade makes for a clean shave that doesn’t require scraping. Scraping is the number one enemy of healthy skin in the beard area of the face. I’ve tried the gambit from the cheap Bic razors that are like, thirty for $1.99 to the expensive stuff and everything in between. Nothing beats a crisp new blade. And a clean one. No caked up hair or dead skin wedged between the blades.

A bad blade forces you to press too hard to “scrape” the hair from your skin. The facial skin gets traumatized and irritated like any other part of the body that has a dull razor blade raked across it would. In my case, this was the impetus for about four years of fighting inflamed skin, razor bumps, infection of the hair follicles and overall crappy facial hair management. I mean, if the skin is irritated and inflamed you can’t shave again until the skin can withstand the blade.

The cycle was broken when I abandoned the disposable, plastic razors and invested in a Gillette Fusion razor. The setup is pricey compared to what you’re leaving behind but, if you’ve struggled with skin irritation and razor bumps, it’s worth the investment. A Fusion razor and two refills retail at around $15.00. Blade refills in 4-8 packs range from around $12-17. While the blades are still disposable, they are of a much higher quality and, when used in conjunction with the other key issues above, alleviate a lot of the painful experiences and irritation.

My rule for razor blades is.. if I have to start applying a lot of pressure to obtain a clean shave the blade should be disposed of. This can get a bit costly but I’ve found ways to extend their use by making sure my beard stays saturated. I shave in the shower or immediately after without toweling off my face. I also shave daily (face and bald head) to reduce the resistance of longer hair to the blade. The waterlogged stubble is more pliable and easier to shave. When their effectiveness starts to wane, toss ‘em.

TECHNIQUE

As I mentioned the amount of pressure you apply is directly related to the amount of discomfort you’re in for when your beard starts to grow in. I like my blade so sharp that I only have to lightly drag my razor across my beard or scalp to shave. This level or sharpness doesn’t last for long but they key is the least pressure applied the better. For a close shave, I typically will shave a surface area in two directions. For instance if I shave my jaw downward from the cheekbone toward the jawline, I’ll reverse the direction and shave upwards. This gives me a smooth feel to the touch. A single stroke with a sharp blade will

usually suffice for ‘presentation only”, i.e. for work, church and looking presentable. The two stroke method stands up to the smooth jawline test. If you have a romantic evening planned with close contact of ANY sort on the menu, double tap that beard buddy. Your lady will thank you.

Shaving in the shower is very effective for an incredibly clean shave usually with a single pass of the blade. The disadvantage can be that you don’t have a mirror to shave in front of to ensure you don’t miss a spot. Especially if you’re shaving your head. I’ve developed a method of just covering my head by touch to identify areas I’ve missed that need touching up. Now it’s second nature to feel for the stubble. It’s worth the effort since it’s a much closer and cleaner shave, there’s less wear on your blade and the hair is much more pliable for shaving off easily.

MOISTURIZED STUBBLE

I’ve already covered this topic but I would add that shaving creams are usually pretty good for keeping the beard moisturized while shaving. I have noticed that shaving cream can kind of dry up when it’s exposed to the air for too long. Less effective when that happens. And it can be a little messy for my taste. I usually just use water and a blade. I haven’t had a razor bump since the mid-90s so I know my method works. It’s really a matter of personal preference.

SKIN TIGHT

Now, this article may sound like it’s sponsored by Gillette and B&C but I LOVE LOVE B&C Skin Tight. Of all the anti-razor bump ointments, oils, moisturizers and remedies I’ve ever tried, Skin Tight works. All the time and every time for me. You’d recognize the scent of it if you’ve ever been to a Black barber shop in your life. The 4 oz. bottle retails for about $12 and, if used as directed, lasts about 3 months or so. It is worth every penny if you’ve ever suffered from razor bumps or irritated skin after shaving. I apply it to my face and scalp every day, even if I don’t shave that day and it lends to keeping my skin healthy and bump free. There may be other great anti-razor bump products out there that work for other readers but in my experience, I stopped looking when I discovered B&C Skin Tight.

I remember making a special trip to the beauty supply store before I flew out of L.A., getting all the things I recommended to my brother and his son and dropping them off at his place. I spoke to him a week later and he, who’d shave with hair clippers rather than put a razor blade on his face, was happy that he had tried the good razor and Skin Tight option. His son too.

Hopefully this is found to be useful information to someone out there. I wish I’d had it in the early days and I’m sure glad I know it now.

V. Ray

#positiveblack